Late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China's costumes

Women wearing doves tail warmer, wearing a high collar collar sleeve jacket, under the long skirt. Man wearing a melon cap, wearing a high collar pullover jacket, wearing a robe. Costumes are a hallmark of human civilization. The Chinese nation is a nation with a long history and civilization. Therefore, she places costumes first in the four major elements of human life such as clothing, food, shelter and transportation. In our history books, it is not difficult for people to find out the colors, styles and evolvement of the social apparel from the times of "public opinion submission". As for Beijing, because Beijing is an ancient cultural city, Beijinger's costumes are more typical and representative. This article describes the Beijing dress, is the Peking Man in the late Qing and Republican period dressed. From the costumes, Beijing said that during the mid-17th century Manchu entered the Central Plains and a major transformation took place after the Qing dynasty moved to Beijing. The general content of this change is to replace the old gowns, big sleeves and the traditional clothes that have been drafted with cheongsams, jackets and hair braids. In this transformation, Beijing's costumes not only absorbed the Manchu style, but also the Manchu costumes to be integrated, so that the capital's clothing more brilliant. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, people wearing robes could be seen everywhere in Beijing. This robe is also called "cheongsam." It is often worn by former Beijing civilians. The clothes were extremely popular before the revolution of the Republic of China and even during the post-Republican period. Summer wear a single robe, Beijingers called it a coat. The clothing is generally cotton, Ge or cloth is better for the cloth. Noble house to wear silk. Daoguang after the name of "Luo gown," the bamboo sticks wrote: "for the wide to wear is soft Luo, wrist shake gold bracelet Baoguang. That knowledge is under the luxury off, watching the play is still Ge Xia more." Spring and Autumn Period Wearing a dressing gown, after winter wears a cotton gown or fur gown. After the Opium War, "foreign cloth" a large number of input, Beijing people have used it as material system to make cotton gown. At that time there was an article entitled "Mianpao" Zhuzhuan said: "Mianpo Yang cloth Jing wife, brightly colored and low color. Unfortunately, a winter wear unfinished, covered with garlic with tomato sauce." Garlic with tomato puree, meaning all the worst. This is a stopgap in Beijing, intended to satirically seek cheaper people. Speaking of robe, it is characterized by: gown over the knee, the collar is round, with a large lapel buckle 襻, moderate fat sleeves, hem left open. Although the robe was originally Manchu-specific costumes, but with the evolution of history, there have been some changes. At first, the Manchu robes had narrow sleeves and a "horseshoe sleeve" (arrow sleeve) on their cuffs. The so-called horse-sleeve was on the already narrow cuff and a semicircular Sleeve, its shape resembles the horseshoe. The invention and use of the horseshoe sleeves have been formed entirely in the long hunt of life. In the cold northeast, the Manchus in the hunt, whether it is a bow and arrow, or run wild, this protection of the back of the horseshoe sleeve, have played no small role. However, with the entry of the Manchus and changes in the living environment, especially in a city like Beijing, what is the use of this excess horsehide? In addition, the original cheongsam is open-ended, and later gradually evolved into open-minded, and even left open. This evolution is also similar to the retreat of the horseshoe sleeve. Open robe is undoubtedly convenient to ride around in the future less and less ride, naturally, no need to open up on all sides. Therefore, as time goes by, most people no longer wear the robes and cuffs four open robe. Only the official clothes of the Qing Dynasty and the robe of a status person retained the original. As the former robes are worn by both men and women in Beijing, women who pay attention to decoration often wear laces and lace at the skirts, tunics and cuffs of their robes to embellish them with beauty. Late Qing Beijing thin robe, long enough to cover, sleeves only arm, shape does not cover buttocks, if suddenly a squat, it may tear. It was said that this was imitation suit and system, so someone would ridicule: "The new clothes boast a root, extremely extremely narrow and extremely difficult." Foreigners convinced Turing, a few see the bow can not be squatted. " Said the robe must say "jacket." I am afraid that young people in Beijing today rarely see the jacket. However, they still can see a small jacket with a lapel in the store. Its style is very much like the jacket worn by former Beijing people. When it comes to Ma jacket, naturally, will think of horses. In fact, it's a coat to wear on a horse. It is said that this pair of lapel, round neck, with open belted buckle 襻 children's jacket, the first ride of the Ming Dynasty when someone was wearing, but the government is forbidden to wear it usually. After the Manchus entered the border, they were different, so Beijing could see people wearing a jacket. At that time, the length of the vest was only to the navel, only to the elbows of the cuffs, which were also open on all sides. It is also the same as a robe, can be made of leather, cotton, clip, single to four o'clock needs. When Kangxi, has risen to a hip length, sleeve to wrist wrist jacket. It was later widely popular among the people, especially those who were over the age of 18, preferring it. In addition to the jacket, there is a jacket with a large jacket, "Pipa" jacket popular. The so-called pipa lapel, that is, the jacket's lapel edge is not cut to the diaphragm under the fossa, but from the shoulders of the second Niu Department directly to the lower cut, but do not cut to the end, so that the lack of a short cut. In general, more for the gown coat used as a dress, with a large lapel jacket used for more than ordinary clothes, and pipa jacket for the luggage. Jacket in Beijing as a man's general clothing, so it is different from the robe, most of the jacket is not trimmed. However, on the occasion of the same light, the streets in Beijing have also had the trendy "fashionable coat with large edge, women's wear men's skirt," but it is only a flash in the pan. Jacket and silk fabric to silk material, but also useful animal skins made. Jacket color blue, purple, gray, yellow variety, yellow is expensive, commonly known as "yellow jacket." General civilians are not allowed to wear, the emperor, patrolling retinue ministers can wear bright yellow jacket. In the middle and late Qing Dynasty, there were quite a lot of hunters admiring the yellow jacket. In addition to robe, jacket, there are several kinds of clothing is often worn by former Beijing people. This is the cloak, cloak, jacket, waistcoat, shield, pocket belly and the main waist. Cloak, cloak and jacket, these are the long-held Han Chinese women's clothing in Beijing. At the beginning of the Qing dynasty, there was a saying of "men and women not to fall" or "men and women not to go" in dress. That is, Han Chinese women maintain considerable freedom in dress. Cloak, cloak and jacket is an example. Cloak is actually a jacket, strictly speaking it can not be considered short, because it can grow to the knee, the style and more for the lapel, sleeves, low collar. General set in the jacket to wear outside. Cloak mostly used when women go out in winter. It evolved from the ancient girdle. Cloisonne in the late Qing Dynasty has been very particular about the production, most of the cloaks are made of bright and lively satin, embroidered on the surface with a variety of patterns, and some even lined with fox, gauntlets and other fine fur. Jackets divided into two types of quilts, satin can also be used to make cloth to do in the area, within the flocculent cotton or cotton. Women close jackets are mostly bright pink, red water and pink color. The history of waistcoat can be quite long. It is gradually evolved from the "half-arm" worn by the Han nationality. This collarless, sleeveless, usually lapel-style waistcoat, whether it is worn inside clothes or worn outside, is easy and practical to wear off and off, so it has always won the favor of men and women. Especially women, if done on a beautiful and handsome waistcoat outside, it appears solemn elegant. Shield son, as the name suggests, is a protective role. Beijing people wear it as underwear. General sub-single, folder, cotton several. Shield and waistcoat is also collarless, sleeveless, the difference is that it is shorter than the waistcoat, to be tailored to fit, and at the same time to strengthen the role of care, do not take the lapel-style, but open in the armpits. I remember when I was young, every winter season, my mother asked me to wear a cotton warmer and a warm body. Tu belly, also known as Tube or belly wiping. Vertical block diagonal vertical use, the upper corner cut a small corner, made of two corners, with a rope or belt at the top of the two corners, and then the rope or belt hanging in the neck; about two The horns are also tied to a rope or belt, and then the rope or tie in the waist. Doudou mostly single, usually made of cloth, rich house also useful silk material production. It's been a long time since I was going home. Such as "South History Chou Di Chuan" in his simple clothing, said: "Winter is short-body cloth robe, summer Zi Zi gauze belly." In the past, children and women in Beijing dwelt more on their stomachs and embroidered flowers, birds, peaches and fat dolls in their hometown. Especially children, in the heat of summer, often dunnage on behalf of clothing, wear not only cool, but also play a protective and protective belly role.

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