The choice of mercerizing and mercerizing methods for cotton knitted fabrics, cotton products (yarns, fabrics) are treated with a concentrated caustic soda solution under tension, and then the caustic soda is washed under tension. Appropriate tension is applied, the roundness of the fiber increases, the original wrinkles on the surface disappear, the surface smoothness, the optical properties are improved (the reflection of light is converted from diffuse reflection to more directional reflection), and the intensity of the reflected light is increased. The general luster of silk. 
The problem of mercerizing and reasonable selection of mercerizing methods for cotton and its blended knitted fabrics is discussed in the following sections.
1. Why is cotton and its blended knit fabric silky?
The development, quality improvement and grade upgrade of some varieties of cotton and its blended knitted fabrics require mercerizing and reasonable selection of mercerizing methods.
1.1 can improve the quality of knitwear
Knitted outerwear fabrics such as cotton and their blended T-shirts, button-down shirts, jackets and skirts are significantly different from mercerized products that are not mercerized. The mercerized product looks like a cotton non-cotton, silky non-silk texture; the hand feels soft and comfortable; the color is full, the luster is attractive, and a distinctive beauty is revealed. , has a distinctive style, giving the overall feeling that the product is of a high grade. If it is made of fabric, style, color, and workmanship, a T-shirt in the domestic price of a few hundred dollars will also be accepted, foreign high-end market can even sell a few hundred dollars, several times higher than the average product .
1.2 can improve the dyeing properties of knitted fabrics
Most of the dyeing or printing of cotton knitted fabrics adopts active technology. After mercerizing treatment, the physical and chemical changes of cotton fibers can greatly increase the color yield of reactive dyes, saving dyeing materials 2 to 3; producing dark products, especially Black, dark blue, green, coffee, etc. must be treated with mercerizing in order to produce high quality products.
1.3 can increase the moisture absorption and elasticity of knitwear
After the knitted fabric is mercerized, the hygroscopicity and elasticity are obviously increased, and it is the preferred fabric for sportswear such as vests and sweatshirts.
1.4 can increase product added value
In recent years, knitwear has entered the market of household textiles. Twenty years ago, in the US market, cotton knitted sheets, quilts, quilts and other commodities were found. In Wuhu, Anhui, China, there are professional printing and dyeing factories that produce knitted home textiles. The printing and dyeing process uses reactive dye processing technology to ensure quality improvement. Grades, with mercerizing and corresponding mercerizing equipment are indispensable.
1.5 to meet multi-level user needs
With the improvement of people's living standards, there is a new multi-level and diversified demand for the inner quality of knitted underwear. To meet these needs, various sorting is an important means, and mercerizing is one of its feasible means.
2. Why use a cylindrical knit silking method?
There are three types of knitting mercerizing methods: cylindrical knitting mercerizing, split flat mercerizing machine and flat-width mercerizing machine. Why do these three kinds of mercerizing methods advocate the use of cylindrical knitting mercerizing? Why do you advocate the inflation-type de-alkali method in the cylindrical mercerizing and the loose-bore carrying method in the infiltration zone?
These advocacy sources are based on the following reasons:
(1) It is in line with the rationality of production process, manufacturing cost and economical cost performance.
(2) Rational understanding from the investigation and comparison of knitting and mercerizing machines at home and abroad. In the last century, the Ministry of Textiles commissioned the Shanghai Textile Bureau to organize experts to conduct special investigation and research on knitting mercerizing machines, and design and manufacture. The Italian Merelux mercerizing machine imported from Nanjing, the German DOrnier mercerizing machine imported from Tianjin, the Nitsil mercerizing machine imported from Guangzhou, Japan, the performance characteristics, usage and problems of knitting silk machines such as Wakayama, imported from Shanghai, Japan. Digestion and contrast, into the 21st century, the success of the knitting profile machine and the domestically produced knitting mercerizing machine, and the advantages and disadvantages.
(3) Recognition from design, manufacturing, and application practices. Now recommended is the third-generation mercerizing machine, which is a LSE201 mercerizing machine designed and manufactured by China in the 1980s. It was designed and manufactured in cooperation with Japanese friends at the beginning of this century, and is still in business. Continue to apply the LZSG-130 mercerizing machine based on the improved and partially innovative new generation of mercerizing machine. Now discuss the actual issues in depth.
Advocating the use of cylindrical knitting mercerizing, the reasons are as follows:
2.1 The production process is reasonable and smooth, and the production efficiency is high.
At present, the processing of cotton knitwear is mostly intermittent, and the basic process of dyeing and finishing process (taking the mercerized oxygen bleaching process as an example): knitted fabric (singeing) → mercerizing (including pickling neutralization) → scouring and bleaching → Dyeing → soft treatment → dehydration → drying → finishing → inspection → packaging.
The above is the basic process flow. When dyeing dark, medium and light colors, there will be different changes. Chlorine bleaching and sub-bleaching will also have different changes. However, no matter how the process changes, all the mercerizing products are generally arranged in the process of mercerizing. In front of boiled and dyed. Nowadays, the knitting and dyeing processing of cotton knit fabrics mostly adopts the intermittent mode of the liquid flow cylinder. According to the characteristics of the knitted fabric, in order to ensure the quality, the fabric is required to be cylindrical, and the cylindrical filament light is in conformity with such requirements. If it is a section of mercerized light, after the mercerizing, re-sewing it into a cylinder and then boiling and dyeing. After dyeing, the suture is disassembled into a flat web, so that the slit is more sutured and disassembled than the cylindrical filament. Sewing two processes. The cylindrical mercerizing light is obvious in the rationality of the dyeing and finishing process of the knitted fabric. Compared with the cross-section mercerizing, the human and material resources are saved, and the labor productivity of the whole staff is high.
2.2 tube knitting mercerizing machine manufacturing cost is lower than the profile knitting knit machine
The cylindrical mercerizing machine has a small width, about half of the width of the section, and the material cost of the material used is much lower. The price is compared with the international and domestic market. The cylindrical mercerizing machine is much lower than the cross-section mercerizing machine, which creates economic conditions for the wide application of the production enterprise.
2.3 Cylindrical knitted mercerized fabrics without edge loss
In the dyeing and finishing production process of the cylinder knitting mercerizing, the fabric has no edge quality loss. After the splitting of the mercerizing, the application of liquid flow boiling and dyeing from the flat to the cylinder needs to be stitched, and the post-processing is then split into a flat web by the cylinder. The dyed edge, the purlin and other mass loss caused by the two processes are in 2 %the above. Anyone with production experience knows that the operation of unscrewing the stitched cylindrical fabric into a flat width is very demanding, not only to remove the suture line without leaving a "tail", but also to control the tension of the fabric, and cannot make The fabric is too deformed to ensure the consistency of the stitches and density throughout the left, right, and right sides of the knitted fabric.
2.4 Cylindrical knitting mercerizing method covers the province, saving water and energy
The cylindrical knitting mercerizing method has the characteristics of small footprint, water saving and energy saving.
The above comparisons are based on the performance and operation of the cylinder or sectioned mercerizing method, which can be discussed under the condition of meeting the product quality requirements. The abnormal conditions are different.
3. Why do you advocate the use of inflatable cylindrical mercerizing?
The so-called air-filled cylindrical mercerizing means that the mercerizing area of ​​the fabric is de-alkali. The compressed-air air is used to inflate the weft knitted fabric into a cylindrical shape, and the fabric is sprayed with hot alkali (or hot water) to remove the fabric. The concentrated alkali, this is the key point of mercerizing.
3.1 Characteristics of inflatable knitting machine (invention patent number 2013600958745)
(1) The size of the cylinder of the knitting cylinder is adjustable when inflated. According to the fabric specifications and process requirements, how big the cylinder can be adjusted.
(2) The size of the cylinder is automatically controlled to keep it within the required range.
(3) A multi-channel annular spray around the fabric to remove alkali, the effect is good.
3.2 Advantages of inflatable knitting machine
(1) The fabric is under tension control and the alkali is used to facilitate the generation of fabric gloss. Proper tension is a key condition for the satisfactory gloss of cotton fabrics and is one of the important factors to ensure the mercerizing effect. Inflatable and its annular showering and alkali-removing method make the fabric balance the force in the longitudinal direction and the transverse direction, so that the mercerizing effect is better. In this respect, the advantages of the air-filled cylindrical mercerizing light are evident in comparison with the knit cylinder flat mercerizing.
(2) The force is uniform and uniform throughout the fabric, and there is no difference in quality. For the fabric, it is not only required to carry out the alkali under the tension, but the tension distribution is preferably uniform. The quality of mercerized products is consistent in the left, center and right. According to the characteristics of the pressure generated when the gas is static, the directions are the same, and the tension after inflation can meet such requirements. Compared with the split-needle tenter-type mercerizing machine and the mechanical cigar-shaped bracket-type cylindrical filament, the force distribution of the fabric is uniform, and the mercerizing effect has no boundaries and no difference in the left, middle and right sides.
(3) Compared with the sectioned mercerizing light, the stable zone of the inflatable type and the ring-shaped sprayed alkali is beneficial to prevent the occurrence of processing defects such as rolling of the fabric cloth, compared with the mechanical cigar-shaped bracket cylinder light. Fabric abrasions.
4. Why does the perforated area of ​​the cylinder knitting mercerizing form a loose pile?
The so-called loose pile refers to the completion of the permeation and puffing in the state of no tension and looseness after the fabric is thickened, and the fabric is carried by the crawler.
There are two main reasons why the loose stack method is adopted:
The first is to prevent creases in the fabric. The knit cylinder fabric is flat in shape after being rolled, and the two sides are in a folded state, and the creases on both sides are not easily generated when the tension state is maintained without tension or pressure during operation. Regarding the traditional roller ventilation method, no matter what kind of tension reduction measures are used, the tension always exists, but the difference in the tension size can not avoid the crease, especially for the dyed products, the creases of the semi-finished products, The requirements for the prevention of purlins are higher, and once the control is not good, quality problems arise. The use of loose piles is the safest choice to prevent creases, while meeting the characteristics of cotton knitwear. Secondly, the loose pile capacity is large, and the conditions for ensuring the full expansion of the fabric are created to meet the technical requirements of various fabrics.
This is due to three considerations:
First, the mercerizing of the cotton knitted fabric is carried out by rolling the concentrated alkali in the uncooked and bleached green state, and the high concentration caustic soda is difficult to penetrate the green body and takes a long time.
Second, when the alkali is rolled, the fabric has a cylindrical flat shape. To prevent creases, the pressure of the rolls is very light, which is not conducive to the penetration of alkali.
The third is the interference of air, which is not conducive to the penetration of alkali. The fabric is blown into a tubular shape before entering each rolling point, and then enters the rolling point, which certainly prevents rolling creases, but is disadvantageous to the penetration of alkali, requiring a process of discharging air.
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